Back to the Test Drive

Royale Bluez Special
"Babe the Blue Ox"

Staff Writer: Zaphod

Smaller cars are 'in' right now, and poor Babe hasn't been getting a workout much, so I thought it was time to share her with the Speed Shop readers. The primary influence in Babes design is that she is meant to be driven backwards as much as (if not more) than forwards. Mortar aiming and Aim Nein dodging can all be done very effectively this way, and it also allows subtle and devious use of the Oil Dropper.

The setup shown on this page is specifically made to defeat those pesky Aims that Division 15 has been plagued with for so long. There is only one real decision to make against an Aim carrying creeper, do I take the missile hit and trade mortar damage, or dodge the missile? In the early fight, trade often and well, take the missiles on the nose, but don't let them punch a hole. This will increase the effectiveness of the twin 50cal spray later on. As the fight progresses, start dodging the missiles, and fire 50cal back while the aims reload. Be very free with the 50cal ammo, you will likely never run out, and it adds up over the length of the match. Use the twin 50's like a hose, spray them back and forth across your opponent. As the fight gets down to the wire, you can use the quick turning reverse driving to place the aim hits on whichever part of the car you choose.

Against mortars, Babe has a little more trouble, because of her lack of speed, but if you can run away in reverse, your effective mortar range will be longer than theirs for a bit, then slam the gearshift forward, get under their morts, and make them suffer with the twin 50cals. If they try to get under your mortar, you can do the same, and/or oil trap them and make them suffer even more. Know your opponent and have your armor adjusted properly for Mortar fire (close to equal on all sides) and you can come away on top.

Fast movers are trickiest to finish, just lead a lot with mortar fire, and stick to 3 or 4 round bursts, more than that, and you will run out of ammo before you nail the little bugger. Sometimes it's fun to get near the end of your ammunition, fire a long burst, and stop it up a bit short. Then switch to just 50cals, saving 5 or 10 rounds for the surprise knockout punch in a minute or two.

The specials on Babe (other than cup holders) are pretty flexible. Use Structo Bumpers to squeeze a couple more armor points out of her, or trade in the Structos for Nitrous Oxide if regen bunkers will be allowed. Mud Flaps for rough terrain, or Curb Feelers if you plan on going airborne. In general, Babe isn't built for ramming, so avoid it if possible. The 15'' front tires are so that you will lose less speed when doing a reverse bootlegger, and bootlegging is what Babe does best. 14'' fronts are an option, and lose even less speed, but then aim dodging gets more difficult in the bad dirt, and any suspension damage will mean the death of you. I have used firerites in place of 50cals, but they are less effective at long range.

Car: "Babe the Blue Ox"
Date Last Modified: 10/6/97
Driver: Zaphod
Cost Weight Description
$ 3730 4609 Corchevelle Royale
$ 3360 30 V-8 $ 0 0 Stock
$ 0 0 4-Wheel Drum
$ 600 0 FL[15" Kragers] FR[15" Kragers] RL[16" Rally]
RR[16" Rally]
$ 790 47 50Cal MG
$ 790 47 50Cal MG
$ 4500 89 WP Mortar
$ 250 46 Oil Sick
$ 200 0 Cup Holders
$ 100 0 Mud Flaps
$ 600 Structo Bumpers
0 0 Armor (480)
-----------------
$ 14920 4868 Total
* All Prices as of AVA Pricing Guide 4.0 (8/4/97)

What's Hot... Watching your opponent run out of Aim missiles, and still being 'yellow', the musical roof hit of a good mortar shot, the soothing chatter of twin 50 caliber machineguns.

What's Not... Shooting the dirt (damn bumper mounts), losing your suspension or one front tire early to a lag ram, being slower than just about everyone else.